Subwoofer bass test.
Step through isolated sub-bass tones from 16 Hz to 200 Hz, run a slow bass sweep to locate room peaks or nulls, and trigger gated punch bursts to check driver control.
Start low. Your system volume also affects loudness.
Ready. No sound plays until you choose a test.
Start at a low volume. Tones below 30 Hz move speaker cones heavily even when they sound quiet.
How to test your subwoofer and low-frequency extension
Start at 80 Hz or 100 Hz—frequencies that almost all subwoofers and bookshelf speakers play clearly—then step downward through 63 Hz, 50 Hz, 40 Hz, 31.5 Hz, 25 Hz, and 20 Hz. Note the lowest pad that still produces clean, even bass pressure without mechanical buzzing or sudden drop-off. Compact sealed subwoofers often roll off below 35 Hz, whereas larger ported home-theater subwoofers may reach 20 Hz or lower.
Finding room modes, standing waves, and acoustic nulls
Bass wavelengths are between 6 feet (200 Hz) and 56 feet (20 Hz) long. When those waves bounce between your walls, floor, and ceiling, they create standing-wave peaks (boomy notes) and cancellations (dead spots) at specific frequencies. Run the 12-second 160 Hz → 20 Hz sweep while seated in your listening chair: if 80 Hz booms loudly while 50 Hz almost vanishes, you are hearing room acoustics or subwoofer placement rather than a broken driver.
Checking your 80 Hz AVR crossover and phase alignment
Most home-theater receivers cross main speakers over to the subwoofer around 80 Hz. If the 63 Hz, 80 Hz, and 100 Hz pads dip in loudness when both your main speakers and subwoofer play together, the subwoofer phase control (0° vs 180°) or distance setting may be fighting your front speakers. Compare main speaker wiring first using the speaker polarity test.
Spotting port chuffing, bottoming out, and room rattles
Use the Driver punch test (four gated 50 Hz bursts) to check transient start-and-stop control. Air turbulence ("chuffing") from a bass reflex port usually appears near the port’s tuning frequency (25 Hz to 35 Hz), while metallic buzzing often comes from loose picture frames, HVAC grilles, or cabinet screws vibrating in sympathy with a specific Hz pad.
Choose your next sound check
- Surround sound test — Check six-channel routing when supported, with an honest stereo preview fallback.
- Speaker polarity test — Compare in-phase and out-of-phase bass tones to compare your stereo system’s relative polarity.
- Online tone generator — Generate sine, square, sawtooth, and triangle waves with fine Hz and musical note control.
For missing or unexpected output, follow the no-sound troubleshooting checklist. For multichannel routing, read the 5.1 surround setup guide.
Good questions.
Clear answers.
Why can I see my subwoofer cone moving at 20 Hz without hearing much sound?
Human hearing sensitivity drops steeply below 30 Hz, so 16 Hz to 25 Hz energy is felt physically as room pressure rather than heard as a loud musical pitch. Keep gain low so you do not overdrive the voice coil.
Can I run this bass test on headphones or earbuds?
Yes. Sealed in-ear monitors and over-ear headphones can often reproduce sub-bass down to 20 Hz because they pressurize a tiny volume of air inside the ear cup, though you will not feel full-body room vibration.
Why does my subwoofer only play during the 5.1 surround test and not here?
This page sends stereo bass (Left + Right), which relies on your receiver or system bass management to route frequencies below your crossover to the subwoofer. To send a discrete channel-4 LFE signal, use the 5.1 surround sound test.
How do I stop a specific frequency from rattling my room?
Play the exact stepped Hz pad that triggers the rattle (often 40 Hz, 50 Hz, or 63 Hz) and walk around the room touching shelves, doors, and trim until the buzz stops.